The Power Tools Thread

Perc

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What about a 20 volt power washer?

Yes, power washers in general should be 230V and need a 16A fuse, or ideally 380V. I know. But the idea here is to wash the boats. We have several, one of which is used for net fishing so it’s constantly dirty. The other ones have bird poop and stuff on them constantly. A portable power washer (if you can call it that) that can draw water straight from the sea could potentially be a handy thing to have even if it’s feeble compared to a proper mains powered one.
17BB69D3-6BDE-4411-84B3-932FA8181AAD.jpeg
 

Matt2000

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What about a 20 volt power washer?
I would be very interested in hearing your experience with such a thing, seems like you have the ideal use case. An 18/20V leafblower can be very powerful so I don't see why the power washer can't be good enough. Maybe only a short runtime though. There are Worx adapters for Makita batteries.

I always wanted a portable power washer when I went to off road sites, the only option then was a trailer with a petrol powered washer and water bowser, too much trouble really.
 

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I would suggest to make sure that the model you get can push at least 500psi. I had Ryobi's first one. Which was 300 or 350, and I pretty much stopped using it, since it couldn't barely wash spider webs off of my home walls and fence. They came out with a new one a few months back that is 600, and it's noticeably better and IMO worth the additional cost. I've done zero comparison research with other company's models, though.

Some of these have a waterproof enclosure for the battery, so a battery with an adapter may not fit some of them.
 

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jack_christie

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The Worx claims to be 27 bar, so not quite 400psi. This appear to be the Ryobi one, it doesn't sell for much more in this country. I like the waterproof battery case they include.

https://www.ryobitools.com/products/details/46396036766

Euro site has a 41bar model
 

NecroJoe

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I would suggest to make sure that the model you get can push at least 500psi. I had Ryobi's first one. Which was 300 or 350, and I pretty much stopped using it, since it couldn't barely wash spider webs off of my home walls and fence. They came out with a new one a few months back that is 600, and it's noticeably better and IMO worth the additional cost. I've done zero comparison research with other company's models, though.

Some of these have a waterproof enclosure for the battery, so a battery with an adapter may not fit some of them.

Well, shit.

So, I had the older Ryobi 350psi unit. I only used it a few times, but took great care of it. I found a thrift shop 40 minutes away that had the new HP 600psi unit, open box. Used, but looked clean and was $75 ($119 new). They took mine in for $40 for trade, and I got them to add a $10 charger in as well, so I left with the 600PSI sprayer and a battery charger, $35 out-of-pocket.

2 months later I wanted to use it for the first time today. No water suction. Took quick-connect off, and the gasketed filter inside was fully clogged, with what looked like a blend of concrete and mouse fur.

So I went in with a fully-functional tool with a waranty and $35 in my pocket, and because I didn't test it, I now have a non-functional tool, no warranty, and $0.

Goddamnit.
 
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Matt2000

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2 months later I wanted to use it for the first time today. No water suction. Took quick-connect off, and the gasketed filter inside was fully clogged, with what looked like a blend of concrete and mouse fur.
The pump is working though, right? It sounds fixable. Looks like there are some cheap brass fitting adapters, would that get rid of the ruined part?
1663373565319.png
 

NecroJoe

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The pump is working though, right? It sounds fixable. Looks like there are some cheap brass fitting adapters, would that get rid of the ruined part?
View attachment 3566870
It runs, but there's no suction. I've pulled out the fitting and filter, and put my hand up to the inlet, and there's no pulling pressure on it at all.

I suppose I could try to take it apart and see if there's something obvious wrong, but I know nothing about pumps, etc, so it'd have to look visually wrong, like a disconnected line or wire, or something visibly broken.
 

Perc

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I forgot all about this thread. I tried it over the weekend, and... it's better than a garden hose, barely. It did clean the porch but slowly and not for long before the battery died. The 2Ah battery I had with the demo was way too small and the slow charger was way too slow. You'd need to go for a pair of the biggest (8Ah) batteries in the Worx platform and the fast charger to have any chance of making any progress. And if you've got access to electricity, the same kind of money will buy you a really good household power washer, or even an entry level professional one.
 

Matt2000

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It runs, but there's no suction. I've pulled out the fitting and filter, and put my hand up to the inlet, and there's no pulling pressure on it at all.

I suppose I could try to take it apart and see if there's something obvious wrong, but I know nothing about pumps, etc, so it'd have to look visually wrong, like a disconnected line or wire, or something visibly broken.
Ah shit, I thought you were suggesting that the blocked filter was the cause but that it wasn't a replaceable filter.

I found an exploded diagram and parts list on the EU site, should be the same for the US model:
https://webservice.ttigroup.eu/partlist/index.jsp?ter=uk&lan=en&ref=RY18PW22A-0&mar=RYO&rsp=

There is quite a lot going on, it's quite complicated but maybe less so if taken a bit at a time.
 
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NecroJoe

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Ah shit, I thought you were suggesting that the blocked filter was the cause but that it wasn't a replaceable filter.

I found an exploded diagram and parts list on the EU site, should be the same for the US model:
https://webservice.ttigroup.eu/partlist/index.jsp?ter=uk&lan=en&ref=RY18PW22A-0&mar=RYO&rsp=

There is quite a lot going on, it's quite complicated but maybe less so if taken a bit at a time.
Ooh, good find. Thanks for that. It's the old version, but I can't imagine there's *too* much difference.

Yeah, the clogged filter was just an indication that there's a deeper problem, hidden by the clean-looking exterior. It must've been used with some nasty water, was run until it died, then they sold it to the thrift store. That's my guess, anyway.
 

eizbaer

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1664960068010.png

... this (DWE7485) may be the only portable / small table saw that actually has a decent fence parallel stop (without paying another arm and a leg for that on top). someone wanna talk me out of it? :p

edit: fence, that is the word. thanks!
 
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NecroJoe

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It seems like a nice little unit. It has limits, but if you're not planning on approaching those, it should be good as long as blade selection for that size (both the blade and arbor size) is adequate where you are. That fence is key, as most other saws in the price range are *horrible* with keping alignment, so the rack & pinion style is well-liked.

You can get around the small table top size by making a crosscut sled, which can give you a wider supported area, and deeper as well, since there's only a few inches between the front edge of the table and the front edge of the blade.

I wouldn't feel comfortable pushing a sheet of plywood through it due to its small size/weight, unless maybe if it was built into one of those large mobile worktables people sometimes make (not my pic):
1664962566798.png


Your depth of cut will be limited to about 2.5" (1.75" at 45 degree). With my 10" table saw, I've only cut through thicker than that a couple of times...though I'd like to do more...but if I was mainly working with sheetgoods, 1" materials, flooring, etc, this seems like it'd be perfect.
 

eizbaer

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Nice picture that, yeah I was already thinking it'd need some sort of table/bench thing to lower it into and clamp it down on to make larger pieces more managable - looks simple enough honestly, and i need some sort of worktop like that anyway. Added bonus: cutout can be used also for other stuff, like a router table with little jig to hold the router in upside down, something like that :)
 

Matt2000

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That's a really smart utility table, saw can theoretically be turned 90 degrees for longer outfeed.

If I had the space I would've bought that saw, I've heard the same thing about it having a good fence and professional maker and Youtuber Wesley Treat used one for years before upgrading to a 'proper' table saw. His makes a funny noise. Admittedly he does long cuts with his track saw and that damn insulation foam that's brilliant and I can't buy here.

I feel like there's a gap in the market for a machine like that with a fixed motor base but replaceable top or innards for a table saw, router table or jointer. Would make swapping saw blades easier too if you could just remove the entire axle with the blade attached and just put another in.
 

jack_christie

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Problems with Milwaukee High Torque Impact Wrench 2767-20 / H96B, now offering older H96A design as a replacement.
 

Perc

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Progress! Last year I bought a cheap torque wrench for changing tires. Then it occured to me that I shouldn't have left it sitting with tension. It's probably out of calibration by now.
So I got one of these for the ugga-dugga.

1665838538492.png
 

Matt2000

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Wha?! I didn't even know these were a thing, that's genius!

I'll definitely have to get one or more, while my digital torque wrench theoretically never goes out of calibration as it's a force meter *waves hands* it's still more effort to use than one of these. Assuming that they're accurate.
 

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Wha?! I didn't even know these were a thing, that's genius!

I'll definitely have to get one or more, while my digital torque wrench theoretically never goes out of calibration as it's a force meter *waves hands* it's still more effort to use than one of these. Assuming that they're accurate.

Boxo Torque Extension Bar
 

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Torque limiting sticks are not meant to be a substitution for a torque wrench. Those are meant to get you close, then you use a a proper torque wrench to reach the specification. I know this is super nerdy, but some fasteners require an exact specification. What I've actually done is use a cheap torque wrench and then a digital adapter which goes between the socket and the torque wrench, to make sure I get it right.
 
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