The Power Tools Thread

There's a 20% off coupon for eBay at the moment, and it covers my favourite known-genuine Makita sellers. So many options, I'll at least get another 5Ah LXT battery on discount but I'm tempted by a split-shaft line trimmer. I was trimming the long grass at my sister's place with a tiny strimmer last year and it was awful, the big Makita could do it in no time and offer lots of other options.

I would buy the 40V version and use it with my PDC01 backpack, which runs it with LXT batteries. That will hurt the power slightly but futureproofs it for when I eventually buy some 40V batteries.
 
Do it. I'm not great at this sort of thing, but what passes for conduit there is just silly.
Ok take a look at this fun situation. Most of those cables go for a 2m lap of honor behind that wood panel on the left bevor disappearing into the ceiling 😐
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Left box is the grid connection, right box is the metering cabinet, middle two fuses (which could’ve gone into the metering cabinet, but why do it all over again?).

Also I have fixed my table saw sled situation. It runs nicely square, which surprised me… what a nice helper one of those sleds is, very nice!

Also also: are adjustable circle cutters the dodgiest tool on the planet? Holy crap, cutting two 50mm holes into two fairly thin pieces of ply felt super sus. Don’t even want to think about what would happen if I were to try the full 300mm my circle cutter would theoretically offer…
These 50mm holes are for a sawdust trap (what’s the proper term? The box that goes in between the saw and the vacuum to catch most of the sawdust and stuff so I don’t have to change the bags in the vac every 5 min). I’m bodging one together from one of those clear IKEA plastic boxes. Looks good so far.
 
So these are 240V cables running in and out of these boxes?
Yes, most of those grey ones are single phase 230V lines. except for the fat „feeder“ ones and one other three phase line to the kitchen.
Oh and that black line at the very top is also 3p to the heatpump. And some orange Ethernet cable 🙈
I mean sure, I could put a huge white plastic „conduit“ thing around it all (similar to the one right at the ceiling), but honestly why bother? It doesn’t do anything…
 
Also also: are adjustable circle cutters the dodgiest tool on the planet?
I think they are. I've been tempted to buy one but I would never be happy using it. I would much rather use one of these slightly less sketchy hole saws for anything up to the 64mm this does:
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Bigger than that and you're better off getting a jig to cut the hole with your router.
 
I think they are.
I just got one because it's basically the same price as those slightly less sketchy modular hole saws but with wider and more granular adjustability... which is mostly a moot point, since the actual accuracy isn't that great either and I wouldn't wanna do anything larger than say 70 or 80 mm either. I'll probably never use the damn thing again lol, but it's good to know that I have it, just in case or whatever...

I do have a circle jig for the router, which works well enough, but that is a bit more involved with the setup and completely unusable for small and thin pieces like this one for my dust extraction thing. that was ~10x20cm@ 5mm thick, which is too small and thin to actually clamp it down and still use the router jig without sacrificing a much larger piece that goes over the top.
 
I once had to use a 7" hole saw drill "bit", to cut a hole in a high-pressure laminate-covered vertical panel, of a $30,000 custom reception desk, with the client watching over my shoulder, under said desk. An awkward angle, with a really heavy bit
and a very smooth/slippery and pretty durable surface. If I was smart, I would have drilled a pilot hole, but I went in "raw". The bit skipped a couple of times before it could actually "bite", so it made a couple of what I called "hesitation marks", but in the end all but one extra mark ended up inside the hole I cut. Still terrifying.
 
So my itchy wallet got the better of me, but instead of the split-shaft trimmer I got the cordless 18V x2 pressure washer. It should be genuinely useful as dragging power and a water hose out to wash any of my cars is a real pain. I would really like to wash the Freelander but I can't be bothered with that hassle. It probably won't do snow foam, but in that case there are plenty of hand foam guns available. My Karcher K2 was struggling with the foam gun last time I used it anyway.
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While moving 50L of water in this thing won't be easy, there are no hoses to untangle, to kink or to leave as trip hazards while I'm working so hopefully a net positive. I've also got the idea of putting a 100L water tank* beside the garage to catch rain water, with a tap at the bottom it'll also make the pump work more efficiently as it isn't having to suck the water. No priming issues either.

I ordered another 5Ah battery with it, so that'll mean I have 4 5Ah batteries and 2 4Ah for a (hopefully) decent runtime)

*Called a butt in this country. Hehe, butt.
 
Scrolling through FB for power tools is always fun. I realize many of these are simple typos, autocorrect nonsense, and tools being sold by surviving family members who may not actually know what the correct name is...but they still me me chuckle.


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As opposed to a full-size meter saw?


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Gesundheit



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Welll...it is a table, and it is a saw...
 
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Beautiful, reminds me that the site Fatfingers.com still exists for eBay searches that include possible typos from a dictionary. These days we would be concerned about such a site harvesting our data, not something that would've crossed our minds much 10 to 15 years ago.

The DPD guy just snuck up on me with my Makita cordless power washer, the pump is heavier than I expected so hopefully a sign of good build quality.
 
I'll try and summarise the progress with my Makita cordless pressure washer without this getting too long. Watch me fail. Well, this thing is designed to have the pump on the top and have a suction hose go down into the tank, but I've read that it can have issues priming and frankly that seems dumb. Immediately after getting it I started planning to modify it.

Modification #1

There are two caps on the tank, one on the top and another on the end for draining. I started designing a replacement cap that would give me a hose fitting at the bottom, so I can connect it more easily and use gravity to my advantage to feed the water into the pump better. I had a spare Hozelock 'Aquastop' hose fitting, so I designed it for that. The tank has weird M50 threads, but I was able to design those in Fusion. First prototype sort of worked.



It had a few issues - it leaked from the fitting because there wasn't enough pressure behind it, it leaked from the main thread because it wasn't tight enough to compress the rubber seal and it leaked from the part where the hose fitting was attached because that was just a hole. By the way, the reason the fitting is recessed is because the tank is on wheels and has a handle on the other end, so the fitting couldn't stick out too much or it would hit the ground in transport.

The solution to problem 1 was to get a Gardena fitting, which has a better seal, and to 3D print a plug to go in a male fitting so I can just use that as a bung. The solution for problem 2 was to change the design to be a giant hex nut, complete with big 60mm 3D printed socket. The solution to problem 3 was to print the threads of the hose fitting into the part. That was tricker than the M50 thread as it's a weird non-standard M27x1.75 that wasn't in Fusion, so I had to generate the tread with an OpenSCAD script and merge it into the part. The thread does seem to be shared across different brands of hose fitting.

The second prototype still used the Hozelock fitting as the Gardena one hadn't turned up yet, it was promising but when tightening it up there was a catastrophic failure of the rig.




Clearly the chamfer had to go. Third time lucky with no chamfer and with the Gardena fitting that's a slightly smaller diameter.



It still dripped a tiny bit (after all, the water pressure is nowhere near the mains pressure these things are designed for), so the plug ensures it's leak-free.



I just made a small link hose to connect this to the matching Hozelock-compatible fitting that came with the washer.

Modification #2

I wanted to ensure I could use this washer with the standard quick-release fitting and tips, as I had with my Karcher K2. Initially I bought an adapter that was supposed to convert the Makita lance to 1/4" BSP, but that didn't fit the Makita washer as it said it should and it's going back. Instead I realised that my 10M Karcher hose and lance is much better than the 5M slightly cheapy hose and lance that came with the Makita, so instead I got the required adapters to use a Karcher quick release with this washer.

It was really easy to get a Karcher quick release fitting with an M22 thread but it's designed for an internal diameter of 14mm, the Makita had 15mm so I needed an intermediate adapter to make it all seal up correctly. No big deal, there was one of those on Amazon too.



I used this today and the setup works well, no priming issues and I only had a tiny amount of water left when the pump stopped picking it up. No leaks either. It didn't like the normal Karcher lance much, I think it's too restrictive and the pump kept shutting off, but the vario power jet nozzle I have worked great, that has an adjustable angle and pressure. It's easily powerful enough for what I want. I had enough water here but I'm not sure if 50 litres is enough to wash a very dirty car, time will tell. It's also very heavy when full, the wheels aren't really big enough.

Using 50 litres of water with 2 full charged 5Ah Makita batteries left one at 3 bars and the other at two (of four), so it could've probably pumped another 50 litres before I had to move to my second set. If I really wanted to I could double the uninterrupted runtime with my PDC01 pack and 4 batteries, but I don't have enough water for that...
 
I battled the wind, rain, helicopter and the other people who wanted to chat to make an average video about the DWH080 modifications. I also washed half of my car knowing that it would be dirty within minutes of leaving.


View: https://youtu.be/uP3K2wToNjw
 
A place to discuss anything and everything concerning various tools for the lazy people that run on electricity or other power sources.

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My saw is decent-enough, but the stamped steel plate is garbage. If I could replace it with a cast/machined aluminum/magnesium, I'd either keep my saw for years more, or would even consider adding one as a day 1 add-on for a saw that's otherwise good.
 
My saw is decent-enough, but the stamped steel plate is garbage. If I could replace it with a cast/machined aluminum/magnesium, I'd either keep my saw for years more, or would even consider adding one as a day 1 add-on for a saw that's otherwise good.

Same. On me Delta table saw, the thin plate design even makes it very difficult to make me own out of wood for dado or zero clearance plates.. I'd even be OK with phenolic ones that I believe the SawStop cabinet saws come with, because those are thicker so it's easier to make plates.

Unless you're talking about a circular saw or trask/plunge saw...in that case, I also agree! I have the stamped steel plate on my Skil.
 
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