The "Questions for Spectre" thread

Are California Air compressors all they are cracked up to be? I understand they aren't meant for high volume things like paint spaying.
 
Ahh, they are a brand of silent oil-less air compressors. I keep seeing various YouTubers that have bought them, and lots of press about how quiet they are, but no real reviews. They aren't terribly expensive and Home Depot even sells them on their website, but not in any of my local chain stores. When I asked a few local "real" tool stores, those guys had no real experience with them, but just assume they must be crap because they aren't an industrial grade brand, or one they service or rent out there.
 
Follow a local Facebook swap group. That's how I got my 8gallon Bell and Gosset air compressor.
 
Are those "silent"? That's California Air's claim to fame, and is the only reason I'm considering a compressor. I've heard there are also other brands, but the CA is the most easily acquired (from amazon) and relatively inexpensive and compact.
 
It's more quiet than most and mine is ancient. It's from the 70s at least because that's the last time anybody did a pressure vessel test.

I assumed all compressors make a bit of a racket. How can you get a near silent one?
 
https://youtu.be/5llYLXZhOJE

I would only be using this in my driveway, and my home is 4ft away from the neighbors on one side and 8 ft away from my neighbor's house in the other.

I've borrowed both the Bostich and Porter Cable pancake compressors, and they were too loud.
 
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Spectre,
I vaguely recall you posting somethingorother about A/C system design at some point.

At the moment, I am assuming the Legacy's R12 system is dead as hell. I haven't actually tried it, but it's a good bet given everything else going on.

Subaru being Subaru, every A/C compressor they ever put on an EJ engine will fit no problem up until the present day. Probably the compressors from the other engines, too. Frigging lego cars.

So, would it be sensible to attempt to rebuild the R12 system, or just convert to R134A? If converting, aside from the typical "replace every seal and o-ring in the entire system and the dryer", what considerations are there to be made?

I figure it's not worth the time to try to run 134A with a 12 compressor - they aren't designed for that duty cycle and compressor availability is "take your 17mm impact socket and a breaker bar to the dirty furriner section of the junkyard"

And, of course, if the damned thing inexplicably works as-is, it'll stay R12 because I like my A/C to freeze over hell.
 
I had my 93 Flareside converted to R134. The wagon is as well. Neither have problems and work(ed) well.
 
Spectre,
I vaguely recall you posting somethingorother about A/C system design at some point.

At the moment, I am assuming the Legacy's R12 system is dead as hell. I haven't actually tried it, but it's a good bet given everything else going on.

Subaru being Subaru, every A/C compressor they ever put on an EJ engine will fit no problem up until the present day. Probably the compressors from the other engines, too. Frigging lego cars.

So, would it be sensible to attempt to rebuild the R12 system, or just convert to R134A? If converting, aside from the typical "replace every seal and o-ring in the entire system and the dryer", what considerations are there to be made?

I figure it's not worth the time to try to run 134A with a 12 compressor - they aren't designed for that duty cycle and compressor availability is "take your 17mm impact socket and a breaker bar to the dirty furriner section of the junkyard"

And, of course, if the damned thing inexplicably works as-is, it'll stay R12 because I like my A/C to freeze over hell.

The R-12 system, if you have access to R-12 and the required gear, would be the way I would go as it's just plain better. However, if you have to replace it and must use 134, get the latest design compressor you can get, get the latest design condenser and evaporator as well - especially the condenser. That's usually the limitation on a conversion, inability to shed heat - that's where converted R-12 systems have the most problems.
 
The R-12 system, if you have access to R-12 and the required gear, would be the way I would go as it's just plain better. However, if you have to replace it and must use 134, get the latest design compressor you can get, get the latest design condenser and evaporator as well - especially the condenser. That's usually the limitation on a conversion, inability to shed heat - that's where converted R-12 systems have the most problems.

I still have two cars that use R12. When the A/C guy who did my R12 service finally stopped working on those systems, I decided to take a look at doing it myself. I shopped around on Craigslist and found a like-new Robinair recovery/recycle machine for $350. I also picked up a vacuum pump from the same guy. I had some R12 in 'stock', but I let my car friends know that I'd like a bit more. Before I knew it, I'd bought 50+ pounds of the stuff, along with a supply of both kinds of oil from two different people, dirt cheap. The way I figure it, I'll never have to worry about charging my own systems again, and, if I sell those cars; I can still get at least some of my investment back by selling my machine and peripherals.

Not that you'd want to do that, but... if you want to stay with R12, ask around at cruise-ins and car shows. The people who still can handle R12 recharges are generally old guys with old cars!

Edit: I forgot to mention that, if you want to simply try adding refrigerant to your system, there are products like "Freeze12" still available at the retail level. These products are different formulations of chloroflorocarbons (sp?) that aren't governed by current Federal regulations. The warnings on the cans say not to mix them with R12, but my opinion is that that's a CYA statement; since my friends and I have been mixing them since they've been on the market and have yet to see any detrimental effects...

SL
 
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If you get into an accident (low speed impact, cosmetic only, no frame/handling) on a leased vehicle, do you need to report it to the dealership or can you just get it taken care of independently and let their post lease inspection dope it out?
 
I still have two cars that use R12. When the A/C guy who did my R12 service finally stopped working on those systems, I decided to take a look at doing it myself. I shopped around on Craigslist and found a like-new Robinair recovery/recycle machine for $350. I also picked up a vacuum pump from the same guy. I had some R12 in 'stock', but I let my car friends know that I'd like a bit more. Before I knew it, I'd bought 50+ pounds of the stuff, along with a supply of both kinds of oil from two different people, dirt cheap. The way I figure it, I'll never have to worry about charging my own systems again, and, if I sell those cars; I can still get at least some of my investment back by selling my machine and peripherals.

Not that you'd want to do that, but... if you want to stay with R12, ask around at cruise-ins and car shows. The people who still can handle R12 recharges are generally old guys with old cars!

Edit: I forgot to mention that, if you want to simply try adding refrigerant to your system, there are products like "Freeze12" still available at the retail level. These products are different formulations of chloroflorocarbons (sp?) that aren't governed by current Federal regulations. The warnings on the cans say not to mix them with R12, but my opinion is that that's a CYA statement; since my friends and I have been mixing them since they've been on the market and have yet to see any detrimental effects...

SL

I have seen detrimental effects with Freeze-12 - long term. Go look at the ingredients of Freeze-12 and then remember that R-12 refrigerant oils are not miscible or transportable by R-134a or related refrigerants. Also, the government now says that even private parties buying R-12 from private parties must now have a refrigerant license (which is cheap and easy to get, so no big deal). 134a is also probably going to end up on the 'needs licensing' list sooner or later.

- - - Updated - - -

If you get into an accident (low speed impact, cosmetic only, no frame/handling) on a leased vehicle, do you need to report it to the dealership or can you just get it taken care of independently and let their post lease inspection dope it out?

Depends on the terms of your lease. Check the fine print; many but not all say that yes, you are supposed to - remember, you're really just renting *their* car. However, many people don't, have it repaired by a shop that doesn't report to Carfax or someone else, and hope that the company doesn't find out.
 
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X-posted from Random Thoughts:

Do you know where I can get these position lights? Car's a 79 Olds Cutlass Supreme, but I'd bet on them being aftermarket...
 
There appears to be information molded into the lens, as with most such - can you get access to the car again to get a close look at the information?

Based on what I can see, I *think* that's an aftermarket standard cab clearance light or fender mounted turn signal for a big truck, possibly from Grote, Signal Stat, Federal, Bardman or similar, likely from the 70s and earlier.
 
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Do you (or anyone else who happens to read this thread) have any experiences with drip/leak trays for pallets?

Such as:
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/m...nt-utility-tray-black-36in-l-x-18in-w-x-2in-h
https://www.newpig.com/pig-utility-tray-with-grate/p/PAK123

My question is: I see that they almost all are HDPE, which can smell. Do these things typically have a strong smell/off-gas (if they are never in direct sunlight, as I know they off-gas more as they get warm)?

I ask because I'm hoping to use them around pets, indoors. I know they are meant to handle chemical and battery acid spills, and not necessarily designed to care too much about giving a puppy a headache.

I've checked with Grainger, and nobody stocks them; they are shipped right from the supplier.
 
If the dog decides to chew on it, it could be a problem. The plastic could be toxic.

I know pet safe items cost a bit more, but there is a reason.
 
Huh...I always thought HDPE was one of the less toxic plastics.
 
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