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Ownership Verified: Viper's 2008 Dodge Viper SRT-10 (A 17+ Year Dream Come True!)

Put a TruTrac in the back and never have to worry about clutches again.
 
I'd rather go with whatever costs me the least. This isn't a common failure so something must have gone wrong, or I abused it or something. I know didn't have enough friction modifier in it for one.

Here's what Wikipedia says I have now:

The Dana M44-4 rear axle from the 2003?2006 model now has a GKN ViscoLok speed-sensing limited-slip differential
 
I'd rather go with whatever costs me the least. This isn't a common failure so something must have gone wrong, or I abused it or something. I know didn't have enough friction modifier in it for one.

Here's what Wikipedia says I have now:

A TrueTrac is a limited slip diff that does not need additives, does not have clutches, and sometimes costs less than rebuilding an existing broken LSD. Most people with them (not just in Vipers) seem to like them a lot better than stock clutch type LSDs. The part number for the Viper per Eaton is 913A614.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dtl-913a614
http://www.jegs.com/i/Eaton/362/913A614/10002/-1
 
 
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The suggested Wave Trac diff just seem to be a variation on the theme.



I also don't see why the Tru Trac would not work, unless they don't make one for your specific application. The Wave Trac does look a bit stronger though.
 
My friend put a OS Giken in his and is recommending it, however he had a Gen 3 Viper with Hydra-Lok or some such thing that was crap and used fluid instead of clutches.
 
Differentials are magic.
 
My friend put a OS Giken in his and is recommending it, however he had a Gen 3 Viper with Hydra-Lok or some such thing that was crap and used fluid instead of clutches.

Head over to viper alley and ask those guys, sure they are some of the biggest assholes on the internet but they are the most knowledgeable viper guys on the internet stay far far away from the VCA they are circling the drain fast.
 
It is missing the ring and pinion gears.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diffe...ntial_(Manual_of_Driving_and_Maintenance).jpg
Differential_(mechanical_device)
 
Head over to viper alley and ask those guys, sure they are some of the biggest assholes on the internet but they are the most knowledgeable viper guys on the internet stay far far away from the VCA they are circling the drain fast.

Oh don't worry, my club and I moved over to the VOA the day it launched and never looked back at the VCA. :)


I'm waiting until I hear back as to what's wrong before deciding what to do.
 
As posted to Facebook:

One of the stub axles won't come out of my Viper's differential no matter how hard they try. It's looking like they're going to have to cut it out and then find a used one. Also the pinion gear is chewed up and rounded.

This is turning into a huge, expensive headache.

:(
 
Hmm, mustang heater core or fucked viper up rear end. :hmm: :p
 
As posted to Facebook:

This is turning into a huge, expensive headache.

:(


You bought a high end sports car, what part of that seemed inexpensive? In the end, it will all work out and will bring many miles of smiles to you. :D
 
Want me to post some receipts to make you feel better about your life? :)

Is this the part where I feel better because my car's brake pad change ($150USD) became a rotor change ($350USD) due to my own stupidity? :lol:
 
Want me to post some receipts to make you feel better about your life? :)

:lol:


So anyway I talked over the issue with Viper friends yesterday. It seems in the past Dodge had issues with stub axles popping out so they went from presumably round C-clips to square ones. This held them in better, but too well. Known issue. The year after mine they supposedly went to chamfered ones. One trick to get them out is to beat on them with an air hammer apparently. :lol:

I'm going to call my local shop tomorrow to see if they'd be okay with me hogging their lift for a bit longer and shipping the whole diff off to California to have a specialized shop called Unitrax take care of it. Con: Lift hogging. Pro: Local shop doesn't have to deal with it, finding parts, etc. and remote shop will be responsibly for warranty and such. My friend even has a wood box he built for his that I can have to make shipping easy.

Ring & pinion: I'm sticking to 3.07 gears -- traction not acceleration is my issue.

Differential: I'm on the fence about rebuilding mine vs going aftermarket. If I did go aftermarket, I'd go for OS Giken if they can get one to fit in my housing without modification. I think it'll come down to overall cost.


I'll know more tomorrow.
 
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Hmm, something seems to be missing:




Oh, there it is:




I see some clutches in there!




Looks okay to me, but what do I know?




Into my friend's box it goes, after a bit of repair from the previous time the box was used:




Oh, and I guess I should ship the stub axle that they got out too so that the rebuilder has all of the parts:





So yeah, it's off to Unitrax in California to get repaired. I'm still on the fence on what gear ratios to use. So many guys love the extra acceleration of the 3.55s. 3.33 might be a good compromise over my economical 3.07s.

For the actual differential, whether I keep OEM or go OS Giken will come down to what's wrong with my current one and what the price difference is.
 
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