Wank to Argatoga's MG

Posmo

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Let me correct myself. I don't have the room. I forgot that the 13B will be pushed further back.

I suggest you take a shot at welding it, or find someone who can, could save you a bit of money :)
 

argatoga

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Quadrax

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I must say this is one of those threads i have been following from the start but never made a comment.

I think it is a fantastic package and it looks like a real fun project car.
Good luck with that efi conversion. I'm sure you will learn a lot along the way.

I'm a bit confused though... so it has a 12a in it now but you are converting to 13b?
 

argatoga

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Yea. The 12A is a JDM 6 port. Parts are hard to get. Plus the engine was using the MG radiator and oil cooler. Not good.
 

argatoga

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Well the 12A was over heating. Not good for a rotary as I discovered.

I'm using a USDM engine. Not that there is much of a difference if any for the FC.
 

Quadrax

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I was just thinking to use the factory efi parts.
I know you are going aftermarket ecu but it seems easier to use factory parts for some of it like the intake manifold, injectors and fuel rail, etc?

Then when it is up and running you can take the time to make a custom manifold that does a better job without having the car off the road for so long. Sorry if i've missed something obvious (got a feeling i have) :D
 

argatoga

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Well driving it without a hood would be the issue. The factory TB sticks up above it by three inches.
 

Eunos_Cosmo

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Well driving it without a hood would be the issue. The factory TB sticks up above it by three inches.

Does the hood hinge backwards or forwards? There is a trick you can do if the hood is a conventional hinge. Just put a 3'' spacer on the hinge where it mounts to the hood. It will raise the entire rear part of the hood 3'' but it will still (hopefully) latch closed at the front. I think it would be a workable solution for the time being. Honestly, I think you should get a DCOE intake setup from racing beat and put a weber 48mm carb on it.
 

argatoga

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Looks like that would work. Having a temp solution like that would be a plus.

SPM-049a.gif
 

Spectre

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IAT sensors do not replace MAP sensors. You'll need both, and don't buy the sensors from DIY, they want a bit much plus you can get them for less with a lifetime warranty from places like Vatozone.
 

argatoga

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Ah yes. I did a search and found a Bosh wideband O2 for $75/

Anyhow I didn't even think of just putting spacers in as starfox suggested. I'll just pop up the hood 3" for the time being and run the car. Having a known working engine before hand is a good thing. And 3" gap in the hood shouldn't look too bad, it is within BL manufacturing tolerances :p.
 

argatoga

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Heh. I do at times wish I had an MGB. :p
 

Spectre

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Ah yes. I did a search and found a Bosh wideband O2 for $75/

Anyhow I didn't even think of just putting spacers in as starfox suggested. I'll just pop up the hood 3" for the time being and run the car. Having a known working engine before hand is a good thing. And 3" gap in the hood shouldn't look too bad, it is within BL manufacturing tolerances :p.

The Bosch wideband is just the sensor by itself - you'll still need the Innovate adapter box and gauge for tuning. Might as well get the Innovate. Get the MS and Innovate from DIY, get the MAP/IAT/whatever other sensors you need at your local auto parts stores. That way if you blow them up you can quickly replace them at no cost.
 
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argatoga

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Won't the MS provide me the sensor readings?
 

Spectre

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Not really, no. The MS requires something like the Innovate adapter. The MS also does not have the ability to power the sensor.
 

argatoga

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I understand that. But the gauge doesn't seem necessary.
 

Spectre

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I understand that. But the gauge doesn't seem necessary.

The gauge itself is something you don't have to drive around with permanently. It's best used for real time monitoring while doing initial tuning - keeps you from unknowingly driving it in a far too lean condition.
 
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