Wank to Argatoga's MG

Quiky

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It's kind of important.
That means you don't need it. If it's truly important, there will be hundreds of posts from FG'ers saying 'OMG FIX IT'.
 

argatoga

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I agree. Breaks are just a crutch for lack of skill.

So I just ordered a new break-axel strap along with some other goodies. I figured now is a good time to replace the remains of my suspension's rubber bushings with some polyurethane goodness. Also replacing the axel straps which while still usable don't have too many more miles ahead of them.

Other then that and my new second hand diff I'm done with the rear of the car for now. Next month I'll get the radiator fixed and start saving for this:

 
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argatoga

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Ok so today I got around to removing the wonky diff, or attempted to. I have the half-shafts out and all the nuts unscrewed and the thing won't budge. Is there anything I could have missed?
 

argatoga

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Did you remember to remove the front pinion?

I've looked on-line and in my ohh so wonderful Haynes book and none mentioned removing the front pinion.
 

Spectre

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Sometimes you have to remove the front pinion to remove the differential from the axle housing, but not usually. The carrier is often semi-stuck in there, so you may need a big pry bar to remove it.

Here's some general tips: http://www.differentials.com/install.html
 

Crazyjeeper

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You usually have pop the carrier out with something. It shouldn't just fall out of the diff.
 

Dr_Grip

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Any stuff you could recommend? I plan on stripping it and restoring it in a couple years so I am not concerned about the paint, but rust is obviously a concern.

As i am from germany i don't know what brands of anticorrosive paint are available in the U.S., let alone which are any good... Spectre most likely will give you a hint there as he seems to have more than a little background in car restoration.

As to removing rust: brush the rust off with a wire brush until you see shiny, rust-free metal (if you do not want this to become a massive exercise in manual labour, you shoud get a wire brush head for your power drill or angle grinder). If at this point you have a hole in your car, you have to weld in a replacement.
If good looks are important to you, use filler to smoothen out any unevennesses you created de-rusting.

Then paint it with anti-corrosive paint, and you're done. Or have a lacquerer do a real paintjob... which is so expensive i won't do it for any part that's not visible from the outside.
 

tigger

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Any stuff you could recommend?
POR-15 for everything underneath the car/out of sight. That stuff is absolutely amazing. If you really want to go all out and eliminate any rust (and any chance of it rusting again, ever) look it up.
 

argatoga

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OK I'm still having issues with the taking the diff off. All that is holding it in there is sealant and other gunk. Is there something I can pour on there to dissolve that crap?
 

JipJopJones

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The way I had to get the broken diff out of my lada was get a couple of 2x4's glue them together and drill a hole in them... then I bolted hte wood to the U joint at the other end of the drive shaft and used the biggest M F of a hammer I could find. It took about four hits to the wood and then it came loose....

Worked for me... so It might work for you.
 

argatoga

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I made mammoth progress today: I removed the rest of the 8 nuts holding on the U-bolts (which in turn hold the axel to the spring). I brutalized a couple bolts when cracking off some of the nuts so it looks like I will be ordering four new ones (not that Moss gives me a choice otherwise :p).

I got my tax rebate so I'll be heading over to Bremerton to have some guys balance my shaft (that needs to be quoted somewhere out of context). Meanwhile I'll work on replacing the spring bushings and replacing the diff on the liberated axel. My plan for the later is to utilize some sandbags and a hydraulic jack.

I do have a question. When I replace the diff should I seal it with something? I read somewhere that that is recommended. If so what should I use to seal it with?
 

argatoga

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Double post time! It looks like my friend in England will be heading off to Iraq sometime in August for six months. So I will need to make some purchases by then. I plan on spendorizing $1500-$2k on upgrades. What should I upgrade first? Here is the website of the place I plan on ordering from:

http://www.mgcars.org.uk/frontline/index.htm

The car is pretty much stock (sans the tranny and engine obviously). Right now I am thinking buying up-rated breaks and the front suspension upgrade.
 

Spectre

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Seal the diff with any and all appropriate gaskets and seals... then use Hylomar as a gasket dressing.
 

argatoga

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Seal the diff with any and all appropriate gaskets and seals... then use Hylomar as a gasket dressing.

Thanks. I have been replacing every seal and gasket I've come across so far. A lot of them are in pretty bad shape (I know it is a shock).
 

Spectre

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Heh. You're learning about what Jag guys call "British Non-Metallic Parts."

It's not the metal parts of Brit cars you have to worry about, in general; it's the *non* metal parts that the Brits don't seem to be able to make for s**t.
 

argatoga

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Heh. You're learning about what Jag guys call "British Non-Metallic Parts."

It's not the metal parts of Brit cars you have to worry about, in general; it's the *non* metal parts that the Brits don't seem to be able to make for s**t.

Yea its pretty scary what I've been seeing under there. I would not have driven my car the way I had if I had known the state it was in from my work on it. It should be pretty solid when I am done with it though. I also don't plan to look to close at the front end for a bit yet. :p
 

JipJopJones

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Hooray!

Looks dirty. Lol. I can't wait to see this road worthy with some moving picture avec sound.
 
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