Ownership Verified: We can rebuild it... we have the technology (7 - take two)

vaccuum bleeding sucks. from the moment you have a minor leak somewhere it won't work and you have no idea why. and most of the time the hose connecting with the bleeder nipple already leaks to much to be able to create a vaccuum

what we do most of the time, is get a spare closinglid for the brakefluid container, find a bicycle tire somewhere where the nozzle has thread to the bottom. cut it off, and drill a hole in the spare closinglid. thread in the nozzle, and pressurise the container. open a bleeder nipple and wait...it'll come out.

you do need a compressor for it, but i think everyone should have one anyways. at first you think you can't use it, but after a while you can't miss it!
 
I like that idea, will see if I can find a spare cap. What type of a compressor are you talking about?

I once used the little compressor tyre pump to find a leak in the vacuum system on 944, it worked rather well IIRC. I made a round plate out of a very thick plexiglass plate with a tyre nipple glued to it and plugged the intake.



Way over-engineered, I know :D Took forever to pump up the system though.
 
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MXM said:
The only one I found required compressed air, which would be too much hassle. If there were a manual one I'd get it.

But also, my problem, I think, was that bleeding nipple was letting air through the threading when opened even just a bit, that would make the vacuum method not very effective.
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I heard only good things about a system called eezibleed, you might want to check it?

Eezibleed.jpg


Works with spare wheel pressure :)
 
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Eezibleed can be bought in .fi for 30? it seems. Not too bad, I'll check it out, thanks.

And the latest pics...

So I mentioned earlier that steering wheel wasn't straight, and it was off by quite a lot. I didn't want to adjust that much at the tie-rod ends, so I decided to reposition the steering column properly. So I adjusted the tie-rod ends to exact same length, centered the wheels and went to look where can I turn the steering column. This U-join was right next to the steering rack, and it's not very easily reachable now that I have all the hoses and stuff installed at the front :(


(phone camera makes everything yellow, cba to fix whitebalance, sorry)

The question was - which one to unhook? I went with the one which was easier to reach, the one connecting U-joint and the steering column. After half an hour of navigating two spanners through the hoses and chassis tubes I got the bolt out and... discovered that the steering column has a U-shaped grove if you look at it from the side, where the bolt goes across. In other words it can only be inserted one way. DOH! Another hour wasted getting it back in and tightened, as the loop of the U-join is incredibly stiff, getting the shaft in there took some significant effort. I ended up hammering a thick flat-headed screwdriver in there to open it up initially. But then I unbolted the lower point, and that one went out and back in very easily. The wheel is straight now :)

And yesterday I've been spending a lot of time here:



The reason I was there was the wires and cables routing in the transmission tunnel. As can be seen here, the floor is flat and the tunnel is enclosed. This means that wiring, handbrake cable, fuel and brake lines need to go through the tunnel, and I needed to take care that none of those touches the propshaft in any situation - whether the rear suspension is fully compressed or extended (as I said earlier, due to this being a live-axle, the propshaft moves up and down with the axle).



And in fact, the handbrake cable was touching the bolts of joint of the propshaft and diff. Making an annoying clonk-clonk noise as the car moves. I re-arranged the cables so, that the fuel line and the wiring goes along the top of the tunnel, and the handbrake and the brake line along the bottom corners. All of them are clipped to the walls of the tunnel, and some are protected with split-tubing against mechanical damage.









The only access points are the opening around the shifter and the exit of the tunnel at the rear. And the bloody propshaft is right in the middle there, making it a really frustrating job. My knuckles are destroyed :( And I lost half a dozen washers, clips etc in there. Today I bough a telescopic magnetic tool to fish it all out :)

EDIT: Oh, and I re-greased both U-joints of the propshaft already earlier. Thought I might as well do it while I have access there. Was a bit messy :p

The big job of today was ordering all the missing parts. Ended up making a 120 ? list, but I hope this time it's the final order.
 
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LSD has nothing to do with live axle of fixed axle

you can even have lsd on a swing axle
 
ZeDestructor said:
Care to explain a bit more about the Live axle and the LSD?
I'm genuinely curious since based on what I have seen an LSD replaces the live axle, and yet here we are staring at a live axle rear end D:
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As bone said, live axle is just a type of suspension, it still has a differential, since it needs to allow rear wheels to rotate independently. In this case the open diff is replaced by a Quaife LSD (limited slip differential) as a whole unit, ie this bit:



Now wheels rotate semi-independently, so I can still make turns but wont end up spinning just one wheel when it loses traction, hence the limited slip part.
 
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bone said:
LSD has nothing to do with live axle of fixed axle

you can even have lsd on a swing axle
Click to expand...

MXM said:
As bone said, live axle is just a type of suspension, it still has a differential, since it needs to allow rear wheels to rotate independently. In this case the open diff is replaced by a Quaife LSD (limited slip differential) as a whole unit, ie this bit:

https://pic.armedcats.net/m/mx/mxm/2011/04/20/271_QDF8K.jpg

Now wheels rotate semi-independently, so I can still make turns but wont end up spinning just one wheel when it loses traction, hence the limited slip part.
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Ahhh, I see. Thanks for the explanation guys.

bone: you should be a bit detailed. Not all of us around here a completely familiar with all the technicalities of cars. I still have a loooong way to go before being able to get all of those. Not having a car doesn't help either :(
 
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bone said:
i'm not gonna start writing an 5 page resume about it, i used to do it when i was 15 (made you look interesting), now i just link to whatever someone else wrote :D

suspension and axles: http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/suspension/tech_suspension1.htm
differentials: http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/traction/tech_traction_4wd.htm

read all that, and suddenly you will know what everybody is talking about ;)
(don't forget to click on "continue" on the bottom of the page :p)
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Torsen, means "torque-sensing"
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index.php.png


(and in my case, that means amazement, not repulsion)
 
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bone said:
i'm not gonna start writing an 5 page resume about it, i used to do it when i was 15 (made you look interesting), now i just link to whatever someone else wrote :D

suspension and axles: http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/suspension/tech_suspension1.htm
differentials: http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/traction/tech_traction_4wd.htm

read all that, and suddenly you will know what everybody is talking about ;)
(don't forget to click on "continue" on the bottom of the page :p)
Click to expand...

Sure, but a paragraph or two isn't too much :p
 
D-Fence said:
index.php.png


(and in my case, that means amazement, not repulsion)
Click to expand...

And here you were thinking all that time that it was the name of the crazy rallying scandinavian bastard who invented it?
 
A very small update, which nonetheless easily took around 4 hours of lining things up, measuring, marking, drilling, bending etc. I was installing the central tunnel cover yesterday.

It's just a simple sheet of metal which attaches to the tunnel with 4 bolts. I used rivnuts again (did I tell you how much I love those already?).



The cover now fits almost perfectly, leaving no air gaps, which is why it took me so long to line it up. And It will be covered with a carpet eventually.

A rare shot of the smooth tunnel, I have yet to cut out a hole for the shifter :)



I'm getting fed up with the terrible quality of HTC's camera. I think I'll start carrying my old n95 for photo purposes to the car, since I have no other P&S camera.
 
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Today I was finishing up the central tunnel cover. Applying the good old method of cutting large holes :)



Test-fitting:



The workbench. More comfortable than you might think ;)



I could probably spend 2 more hours smoothing out the hole, but decided that good enough is enough and left it there. It will be covered with the carpet anyway.



And the final result. with the rubber boot riveted in. I was thinking of putting another leather boot on top of it, but now it seems there just isn't enough space. Also the shifter handle is way too short for my liking, I need to see if there are extension pieces available. The knob is also from a wrong gearbox, this one has 5 gears.



And another simple job to finish the day, drilled a hole for the horn button. It's on the right side there, on the triangular panel.



Moved to using N95 as a camera btw. If nothing else, the white balance is not stuck at yellow at least.
 
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Taking the short shifter performance increase a little seriously, aren't we? :p
 
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