Shafted

argatoga

argatoga

Can't Start His Wank
Joined
Oct 4, 2005
Messages
18,200
Location
Zagreb
Car(s)
'08 Pontiac Solstice GXP
I finally yanked the driveshaft out of my MG so I can fix the rattling problem I have been having with it. The U-Joints seem fine (they easy move in all directions) so it looks like something more annoying is at fault. When I took it out however I noticed that there were no bolts holding it onto the transmission. It just pulled right out after I undid the diff end. Attached is an up close image of the shaft and the transmission end. Could someone explain this to me?

https://pic.armedcats.net/a/ar/argatoga/2009/02/14/shaft1.jpg
https://pic.armedcats.net/a/ar/argatoga/2009/02/14/shaf2.jpg
 
That's normal, it's a slip yoke. It's used to allow the driveshaft to move in and out of the transmission as the rear axle goes up and down.
 
Ah ok. As you can see I'm not much of an expert when it comes to doing real work on a car :p.
 
Before you put it back on, clean the splines of any debris and grease them. Likewise wipe down the outside and lightly grease it.

The rattling may be caused by that shield on there.
 
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Is there any special grease for this or do I just ask for some car grease at the auto parts place? I am also going to replace the tail shaft seal. Any advice for this? I just plan on prying out the old one and plugging in the new one (making sure to lube it with some tranny oil first).

The rattling from what I have been told is a differential problem (it clunks when I change gear, rattles under low revs) so I am looking for a new one at the moment.
 
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Standard chassis grease will do - I like the Mobil 1 product.

As for the seal - yeah, pretty standard, use a big deep socket of the appropriate diameter as a seal driver. Lube the inside lips with chassis grease before install, and make sure you clean the splines first.
 
Well it doesn't seem that using chalk to mark the driveshaft position was the best idea. The stuff has managed to rub itself off. I might as well take advantage of this opportunity and have the shaft calibration rechecked at a drive train place. Can someone give me an idea what I need to do for this?
 
Just take the whole assembly to the driveshaft shop, preferably with two new U-joints so they can replace them while they're at it.
 
:mrgreen:

Sexual innuendo aside, you do need to do that to avoid destroying the seal on first startup.
 
So they don't need to see the car to balance the shaft? Do I just rebolt it in, or do I need to do any alignment?

It seems that Mazda decided they hated replaceable U-joints sometime starting in 84. Which U-joint should I use for the tranny end? Is there a way to determine if it is from an 83 or newer (they used the 12a up to 85 I believe).
 
No, they don't need the car to rebalance the shaft. You just bolt it back in.

The driveshaft shop should be able to get you a proper U-Joint if you can't find one for it.
 
Spectre said:
No, they don't need the car to rebalance the shaft. You just bolt it back in.

The driveshaft shop should be able to get you a proper U-Joint if you can't find one for it.
Click to expand...

Ah so I should be able to get away with just providing them a U-Joint for the diff end?

Do they mark it for me then?
 
Um...

A truly balanced driveshaft doesn't care how it gets bolted in.
 
Spectre said:
Um...

A truly balanced driveshaft doesn't care how it gets bolted in.
Click to expand...

Everything I read on the matter mentioned the need to mark it when removing it.
 
Yes, so that when you put the unmodified shaft back on it will be in the factory orientation.

But if they rebalance it.... that doesn't matter any more.
 
Ok. Thanks for clearing that up.
 
I think my 'shaft has a bad U joint as well. I'm getting some interesting bind at low speeds (after the car has coasted backwards a little bit, it binds when I continue forward) and vibration between 5500-6500rpm.
 
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