Ownership Verified: 1967 Ford Fairlane 500

Thanks guys, I'm glad you like it. I think it's one of the best sounding cars I've ever personally heard.

I posted this video in the "Take us for a drive in your country" thread, and I thought I posted it here too, but I guess I must have closed the tab without posting accidentally...

I got a external mic to use for recording the exhaust, and it worked awesomely
Mic is a Audio-technica ATR3350, and I attached it to the licence plate.



In other news, I went on a short drive to St. George today, and averaged 18.8 mpg. It was extremely windy though, so I consider this quite good.
It still has that exhaust leak, but my fancy new soft aluminum header gaskets showed up today, and I'm hoping I can get access to the university's facilitys shop (and it's 2-post lift) so I can replace the gasket this weekend.
 
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I don't have much experience with V8s, but that idle sounds rough (although the engine sounds great at speed)? Have you checked the timing?
 
mjk said:
I don't have much experience with V8s, but that idle sounds rough (although the engine sounds great at speed)? Have you checked the timing?
Click to expand...

I think that's actually an exhaust leak.
 
The idle is supposed to be kind of rough and lopey since I have a camshaft with a reasonably large amount of valve overlap (both intake and exhaust valves are at least slightly open at the same time)
This is good for high rpm power, but it makes for a rougher idle. I like the sound though. In my mind, muscle cars are supposed to have at least a slightly rough and stumbly idle.

Also, it should be noted that I currently have the car set to idle around 400-500 rpm, vs the "normal" idle of around 650-750. at more normal speeds, the stumble and lope go away, and its much more smooth. Like I said, I like the lope though, so I keep it low.

As well, I do indeed have an exhaust leak, which can be heard throughout the video as an RPM dependent ticking noise.

I plan on fixing the exhaust leak this weekend.

I also just took the car down for its annual safety inspection (it passed with flying colors of course) and went to the local DMV to get my tags for this year.

all told? less than forty minutes from leaving my door, to coming back. No lines at the DMV, nor at the inspection place. Fast, straightforward, and simple; just the way I like it, and only $85 too ($15 for the inspection, $70 for the tags and taxes)

It's nice being in a small(er) town sometimes :D
 
And in a land where large displacement engines don't cost a fortune to register and insure.
 
Awesome stuff, and please keep us posted on the dash insert progress.
 
So 2500 miles on the new engine so far, and absolutely nothing has gone wrong with it since fixing the roller rocker pedestal at the 200 mile mark. :mrgreen:

The engine feels like it is making more power almost every single time I drive it. Not long after my last post, around 1000 miles, the engine had a noticeable drop-off in power at 5600 rpm, but now that I'm up to 2500 miles, and its a bit warmer out, the engine pulls hard all the way to 6000 or so.
I still haven't had time to remake the throttle middleman arm either, so the secondaries on the Q-jet are still only opening about 65% of the way. When I fix that, it's going to make even more power.
Neither have I been able to fix the exhaust leak. When I was hoping to fix it before, that was defendant on me having access to a lift at a friends workplace over the weekend, sadly, I was not able to work in that shop, and pulling the headers is not a job I can really do in a parking lot, so I've just been dealing with the leak (it's not so bad now)
Here's a few pics I have taken over the last 1500 miles:



and a panorama: (click for 5760x1080)



I'm going to be going home for this weekend, as it's the end of finals, and I hope to fix the exhaust leak, remake the throttle middleman arm, and install my two latest purchases, a oil separator tank, and hood-pins. The separator tank is necessary as my valve covers do not have baffles in them, and there's quite a bit of oil misting coming out of the breathers. It's making a real mess, and I don't want to just send all that blow-by down the intake, as it'll carbon up everything. The tank is an eBay special, but it should suit my needs well. I'll take some pics of the install and do a writeup.
The hood pins are necessary as my hood, like most hoods back then, is only latched in the center. The design of the front of the car is such that the hood acts like a scoop, and catches lots of air under it. At higher speeds (like the 80-85 mph I can now comfortably cruise at) the hood catches enough air that it's causing the outsides of it to flex a lot while driving. Not only is this annoying, but I am very concerned about the metal fatiguing around the latch, and eventually failing; hence, hood-pins. The pins I bought are standard cheap universal ones, that are supposed to replace the latch, and the rubber bumpers the hood rests on, entirely. I won't be doing that though, I'm going to do some custom work with them to retain the latch and rubber bumpers, to constrain how far down the front of the hood goes, and use the pins to constrain how far up it can go. If it works out as I envision, it'll be a pretty slick setup I think, and bad-ass looking to boot.


Now, as I said, Absolutely nothing has gone wrong mechanically with the car in the last 2500 miles, but I don't really consider the gauges, and the instrument cluster, to be something the car mechanically relies upon, and plenty has gone wrong in that department. <_<

First up was my brand new Stewart Warner speedometer, PN 550DP. at exactly 1000 miles, the odometer broke. The speedo still registered speed, and the tenth of a mile indicator (0.1) on the odo still rolled, but the internal gears stripped, and it stopped counting miles. The part was replaced under warranty by Summit Racing and Stewart Warner. The new speedo had a different color housing, and I had the impression that it was a bit more... "sturdy".
It wasn't. <_<
In fact, it was worse. :mad:
This time, it broke at only 100 miles. 100 miles, that's it. The exact same problem. again. :wall:
Needless to say, I was not pleased. Not pleased at all.
I got on the phone with Summit racing, described the issue, and my extreme dissatisfaction with it. I told them I wanted to switch to Autometers, and return both Stewart Warners (even though the fuel gauge was actually fine) and they approved a full refund for me. :dance:

My Autometer 2494 Speedometer
105-2494.jpg


and Autometer 2515 fuel gauge
105-2515.jpg


arrived 2 days later. I installed them in my wood dash, and I've been happy ever since. Well, mostly happy.
You see, the fuel gauge does not wobble around, instantly showing the exact position of the float like the SW fuel gauge did, which is very good, BUT the Autometer fuel gauge is designed to work with the OEM factory fuel sender, which is non-linear from 10 to 73 ohms.
My fuel sender has apparently been replaced with a aftermarket 10-73 Ohm replacement. Every single aftermarket sender, as far as I can tell, is linear from 10-73 Ohms
This means my new Autometer fuel gauge is only accurate at Full and Empty. everything in-between is wrong.
Autometer says the solution is to change the fuel gauge to one that is designed for 240-33 ohm senders, and get a matching sender for my fuel tank.
I don't like the design of the universal senders I can find, and the only sender I can find that fits my specific tank is the linear 10-73 Ohm replacement.
Basically, according to Autometer, I'm up shit creek, because I drive a Ford that's not a Mustang.

Obviously I don't like that option, so I've been doing lots of google work, and I found some forum posts (HERE and HERE) that talk about a fix. I need to place a resistor of the correct value between the sender and the ground posts on my gauge, and thanks to Ohms law, and the peculiarity of resistors in parallel, this will sort of replicate the original non-linear fuel sender, at least closer than it is now.
The resistance values provided in those two posts seem to be specific to 22 gallon or 16 gallon fuel senders, and my Fairlane, of course, has a 20 gallon tank.
I just need to find out what my specific sender is reading at full, half and empty, and I have an excel spreadsheet setup that will calculate the resistor I need.

It's not quite annoying enough for me to go out there, drain the tank, and fight the sender out so I can measure it's resistance values at certain positions yet, so the fix will be waiting a while
For now, I'll just deal with the fact that when the gauge is reading that I only have 1/4 tank left, what it really means is that I am almost down to a half tank.

Now, as I've posted in the past, I took a CNC milling course this semester at school, and in that course, we learned about sand-casting aluminum. I needed a final project for the class, so I decided to cast a new instrument cluster, and mill the cast piece to accept standard gauges.
I started by making the cluster in Autodesk's Inventor:

this is after several revisions, and around 60+ hours of reverse engineering/modeling. This cluster would also reuse the original clusters idiot lights, as well as the originals method of lighting up the HVAC controls; using a peice of clear plastic, with the labels screenprinted on it that's illuminated indirectly from the side. This design is set up to make use of the original plastic.

then I created a CAD casting pattern based off of my CAD model of the cluster:


which was then cut into 5 separate CAD models (just one pictured)


and then I 3D printed all 5 pieces using the small RepRap printer in the CNC Lab: (the school has 2 big printers, but they were both in use, and the line was too long)

I used about 80% of a $25 roll of PLA plastic to print everything

I then epoxied all 5 pieces together:


and used sheet-rocking plaster to smooth it all out, and make it so the pattern could be cleanly pulled from the sand (I forgot to take a pic, so here it is after I pulled it out of the sand):


I then (having already made my 2 piece casting flask) began the long and tiring process of pounding sand:



This was going well, right up until the point when I was going to separate the two halves of the flask, and pull the pattern out leaving a cavity for the molten aluminum to fill.
Keep in mind, that with both halves together, there was around 250 lbs of sand in the box, at least
when I pulled the top half of the flask off, it pulled nice and straight, BUT it left ALL THE DAMNED SAND IN PLACE!
The mold was ruined.
I was livid.

It took me more than 4 hours to pack all that sand. To perfectly pack the top and bottom (the top twice due to the nature of how this type of mold is made) and ensure that the separation lines would be in good places.
it was a major time investment, and the next day was the last day the professor would do any casting for the semester.
On top of the mold failing, as I was packing the sand, the plaster started to chip, and crack. I knew I would only get one chance to pack it, and when I pulled the pattern out of the failed mold, I found that the epoxy had broken along the thin walls.

I ended up not being able to cast the dash insert at all. My professor still gave me a 100% grade on the final project, since I did make something, so there is that at least.

I'm going to use this opportunity though to redesign, and come up with an even cooler dash insert that beyond looking even better, would be easier to cast (if harder to machine)

here's where my thoughts are now:





Anyways, This has been another long update, with far too many words, SO I have a video that I made today. It's kind of long too, but I have the cliffnotes with timehacks listed on the youtube description, and I'll list them here too in fact, I'll post the whole description:
The beginning acceleration (00:18), and the u bend wheelspin (27:33), where the back of the car gets slightly sideways are the best bits I think.
Also, keep in mind that the gearing on this car is so long that I am shifting into second at just over 70 mph...
Youtube said:
Driving SR143 (Parowan Canyon) and UT049 (Yankee Meadows Road)
Starting at the base of SR143, I drive up to the road to the Yankee Meadows intersection. I drive on UT 049 to the end of the pavement, before returning to SR143, and continuing up SR143 to Brian Head resort.

00:00 - 00:18 - Startup
00:18 - 00:50 - Acceleration
02:10 - 09:52 - Driving up Yankee Meadows Road (at 8/10ths)
09:52 - 10:10 - Proper muscle car style U-Turn
10:10 - 19:54 - Slow Cruise back to SR143
19:54 - 23:15 - Acceleration to cruise speed, then Cruise up SR143
23:16 - 28:33 - Most interesting part of SR143; Lots of twists, turns, and steep hills. beautiful scenery. U bends with wheelspin from 27:33 to 27:57
28:33 - 31:32 - Driving through Brian head Resort

Car is a 1967 Ford Fairlane 500 4-door, with a recently rebuilt 302 in it. engine has just under 2500 miles on it at this time.

Carburetor is a 1983 Chevy Quadrajet
Intake is a Summit Stage 1
Cam is a Comp Cams N+271 Nostalgia Plus, with ProComp Roller rockers
Self ported 1979 302 Cylinder heads (~9.0:1 compression)
Patriot long tube headers
Smithy 30" glasspacks exiting in front of the rear tires.
1965 Close-Ratio Toploader 4 speed transmission (never rebuilt afaik) with Hurst Comp+ shifter (period piece, also never rebuilt)
2:79:1 rear differential
6000 RPM shift points


Filmed with an original GoPro Hero, Audio from an Audio-Technica ATR3350 mic, clipped vertically to the rear licence plate.
Click to expand...
 
Really interesting stuff!

Is it not an option to find an OEM fuel gauge sender? Maybe in a junkyard?

And have you thought about 3D-printing the dash out of plastic and leatherwrapping it? Or maybe 3D-printing it out of aluminium?
 
Thanks Jupix

There's two main problems with an OEM sender out of a junkyard; one is that anything much older than '75 is getting very difficult to find anymore, at least in every junkyard I've visited within 300 miles of where I live in Utah.
Second, and a more serious issue I think, is that OEM senders are now coming up on 50 years old. The odds of finding one that is still in perfect working order are pretty much zero, and even if I do find one, and it's at a price I am willing to pay, who knows how long it will continue working for. It'll likely have been out of service for more than 20 years now...
To me, an OEM used sender seems like a band-aid to a problem that shouldn't exist in the first place, but since, sadly, Autometer is not likely to be fixing their stuff; I'll have to fix it for them, for my application.

I'm taking an introductory electrical engineering class next semester, so hopefully I'll be able to learn what I need to in order to fix this right.


In other news, as I've mentioned elsewhere on this forum, I am currently in San Antonio, Tx for an internship, and without any of my cars. However, this has not stopped me thinking about what needs to be fixed next, so, the next issue I am going to tackle is the excessive engine vibrations.


My thoughts on this issue have gone down several paths, but if you had asked me what I thought the issue was 3 days ago, I would have said with absolute certainty that the issue was a manufacturing defect in my cheap Chinese flywheel, as that was the only reason I could reasonably think of as to why I would have picked up a bad vibration with a transmission swap, and then kept the vibration when i moved to an entirely new engine. The flywheel was the only thing that didn't change that could have caused an imbalance.

That was 3 days ago. 3 days ago I started looking for a new flywheel to replace the presumably out of balance old one, and in so doing, I needed to find the specifications for the old flywheel, so that I could ensure the new one would mesh up correctly with my starter. The issue I was concerned about was whether my flywheel was a 157 tooth, or a 164 tooth flywheel, as Ford offered both in the 60?s, and I could not remember with 100% certainly which style I went with, a good thing I checked too.
The flywheel I bought when I did this swap in the first place was an ATP Z-299, and at the time, I remember having found some information that indicated that this particular flywheel was a 28 oz, 157 tooth flywheel, as would likely have been stock on my car. When I started looking for this information again, it was nowhere to be found. In fact, all the information I could find was indicating that the ATP Z-299 was infact, a 50oz, 164 tooth flywheel! :blink: WTF! If that was true, then no wonder I was having vibration issues.
Of course, I?m in Texas now. The car is 1200+ miles away in central UT. To verify that my flywheel was what the internet now says it is, I needed to check the location of the ring gear (whether it was on the crank side, or the transmission side of the flywheel) luckily for me, I?ve been posting pictures, and this post from Feb 10, 2013, told me what I needed to know.

NotLaw said:
?
Like magic, the Auto transmission is out, and the flywheel and clutch assy is in:

?
Click to expand...

In this shot, it?s easy to tell that the ring gear teeth are on the crankshaft side of the flywheel, due to how much the teeth are occluded by the flywheel itself on the top of the image, and per this document, found via a google search the ring gear location indicates a 164 tooth flywheel.

It turns out that I managed to get astonishingly lucky, and that I had also bought a 164 bell housing, though the eBay ad indicated otherwise, and as well, it turns out that the starter, P/N DL3132, is of the short nose, 164 tooth variety, so everything happened to work, despite my idea that every single part I had bought was for the, supposedly more common, 157 tooth flywheel.

All of this lends credence to ebay ads such as this one:


So, easy right? I?ve got a 50 oz flywheel instead of the 28 I thought I had, and that?s caused all my vibration issues, right? Time to go buy a new 28 oz flywheel and be done with it.

Not so fast. At this point, I was having some serious doubts about all my assumptions, so I decided to check everything and make sure that I was right.

First up, I re-confirmed that my 302 block was a 1983 block. This means that from the factory at least, it had a 1 pc rear main seal, and by 83, Ford had also settled down into 50oz balancing for all 302?s. :hmm:

Next, I had my dad pull the harmonic balancer that came with the 302 out of the shed, and we looked up the part # on it, D6ZE-6316-A2A, which turns out to be a 28oz balancer. Strange? :?

I wasn?t sure which casting number was on my crank, and I couldn?t find any pictures I took to check against (I know I have them, but no idea where they went, I already did a skype desktop share with my PC, but I could not find them)
I am however quite certain that I have a 1 pc rear main seal (to machine an ?83 block to accept a 2 pc seal is not exactly worth the effort of a machinist unless there are special circumstances)

Therefore, despite the weird 28oz balancer, the odds are that my crankshaft is in-fact, a 50oz unit.

This is supported by the fact that with the old engine, a known 28oz crank, with a (now) known 50oz flywheel rocked and rolled and vibrated like crazy; unsurprising considering that the two heaviest parts in the entire rotating assembly were balanced to completely different specifications.

The new engine however, while it still vibrates, is nowhere near as bad as the 289 was. With the two heaviest parts agreeing on balance, with only the much smaller, lighter harmonic balancer being wrong, lesser vibration seems to make good sense to me.
(I used a new replacement balancer for the 289 on the 302, so that it would line up with the timing pointer on the 289?s timing cover, which I had to use due to the fact that the 302?s cover was not set up for the correct dipstick location)

So I don?t need a new flywheel after all, but a new 50z balancer. A much cheaper, and much easier proposition.:woot:

In addition to a new balancer, I am using this opportunity to buy myself some birthday presents; things I?ve wanted for the car, but have been putting off due to lack of spendable money.

A Summit Racing Harmonic Balancer, 50oz


Flex-a-lite electric fan, to replace the direct drive, noisy, power-sucking, hand-hurting SOB that calls itself a fan that?s installed right now


A controller designed for the fan that will require minimal screwing around trying to get it to work


Some metal/glass constructed Euro style cutoff Hi/Low and Hi beam headlights from Autopal, with the free optional white bulbs (I think they look silly, and are the wrong style for the car, but I drive too much, and too much at night to care. Function over form in this case)
These will be combined with some relays to ensure that my headlights are at their full brightness all the time.


And some side emitting red LED?s for a project I have in mind that should vastly improve my brake-light visibility from more angles than directly behind my car.


I am also going to finally be installing a head unit and some new speakers into this car, but sound system design is not something I understand or am good at. I see all these specifications for speakers, voltage, watts, impedance, RMI, etc, etc and I don?t understand a damn thing. I just want something I am going to be able to hear inside my car at highway speed with the windows down (my phone claims ~75 dB if I remember right) along with a headunit that can play Pandora from my android phone. A headunit with variable colors (so I can match it to the green dash illumination) would be much preferred.
I don?t want to spend more than $200 on a headunit if I can help it, and for speakers, I want the cheapest setup that will still provide acceptable sound. I?m not an audiophile by any means, and even if I was, the Fairlane is not the car for that?

At the moment, I am leaning towards this Pioneer DEH-x6600BT but I am extremely open to other headunit options if anyone has suggestions.
For speakers, I?m at a loss, any suggestions there would be much appreciated.
 
Once again, i could have sworn I had updated this thread at least once since I got back to Utah from Texas last August. I guess not. I'll have to write a few posts over the next couple days to get everything caught up.

In the meantime, the TL/DR edition; The car is more or less fixed, and has been since September 20. It's quite a bit smoother than it used to be (as you'd expect) but there is still some vibrations that I suspect are from the drive-shaft.

Power-wise, this thing can move. If I poke it hard enough, it'll do a peg-leg burnout even on asphalt (which I was not expecting given the gear ratios) and fuel consumption is around 21-23 mpg if I keep it under 75 mph, and 18-20 if I average 80+

The Quadrajet is performing exactly as I hoped it would, and the throttle response is nothing short of amazing.
A wide open pull from 2000 rpm up to 6200 in second car is a thing to experience. You can distinctly tell when the cam comes on power hard (at 2600 or so) and when the secondary's start opening at 3000 or so, and it pulls hard all the way to 5900.
It distinctly reminds me of my Saab, though on/off cam and on/off secondary is not quite as big a difference as on/off boost.

The sound is unreal, and almost entirely impossible to capture on video (I've tried)
Having said all that, it's definitely not the fastest thing on the road, but the ~300 or so horsepower I estimate this thing to have (@3000lbs mind) feels just right. Its quite enough to seriously enjoy, but not so much that I can't enjoy every last one of those glorious ponies.

I can only imagine what it would be like with more "normal" gearing.


The Vibration problem did end up being the flywheel. While the odds may have lent great credence to the idea of my crank being a 50 oz crank, the odds did not take into account the engine re-builder, who put an earlier 28 oz crank in. I fixed that in September. I have pics, and I'll do a post later this week on the details

Since the balance fix, I have gone on 2 major (400+ mile) day trips, which I took a large amount of pictures of, here's some teasers of that:




Again, some full posts later, I'll prob break it up into 3, one for the balance fix, and one for each trip.

Now, the reason I wanted to post in the first place. With Winter finally upon us, and the Fairlane more or less parked for the Winter (although I am keeping it with me this time) I was missing driving my car, and watching a video I uploaded onto my Youtube channel a while ago.

I never got around to posting it here, but now's as good a time as any.

One last comment though, when I made this video, it was my first time out on these roads, so I was being just a little bit conservative while I learned the road, and the nuances of the way the car behaves when I poke it with a big stick.


I've got a crazy wheel-hop problem though, as you'll see in some of the video's I took just after I fixed the engine. I'm getting the hang of it now though.

I think I am going to try to fabricate some home made traction bars/Cal-Tracs though. There's a pretty good writeup over at FordMuscle...


Anyways, There's been a lot of changes, and a lot of pictures over the last three months, culminating in some modifications I made the last week of November that improved the look and the winter usability.
 
you had vibration because the flywheel was too light?
 
I think that is an externally balanced engine that requires a specific flywheel.
 
so a flywheel that isn't the same weight all around? (like the wheels time-trial cyclinst use, with a weight somewhere between the spokes?)
never heard of that! you learn something new every day..:)
 
bone said:
so a flywheel that isn't the same weight all around? (like the wheels time-trial cyclinst use, with a weight somewhere between the spokes?)
never heard of that! you learn something new every day..:)
Click to expand...

Some of them, yes. Some engines are "internally balanced" so the flywheel and harmonic balancer are unweighted. In an "externally balanced" engine, the harmonic balancer and flywheel are weighted at specific points to negate vibrations.
 
As everyone has stated above, yes the Flywheel has a balance weight cast into it to counteract the balance weights on the crankshaft. Small block Fords are externally balanced (for better or worse) and utilize a weighted flywheel and a damper on the snout of the crankshaft. Over the years Ford in their infinite wisdom has used 2 different weight's, and documentation as well as actual examples have severely muddied the water regarding when exactly they made the change and in which applications when.




Ok, rewind to August 20th. I had just got back from my Syberjet Internship down in San Antonio TX, and I hadn't touched the car since the end of May. Over the summer, despite being away from the car, I managed to convince myself that the terrible vibration issue I had had since swapping the 4 speed in back in December 2012 was, on the old engine due to an incorrect flywheel on one end, and the new engine due to an incorrect Harmonic Balancer on the other end.

When I got back to Utah then, I had 3 orders of business.
1st and foremost, swap the harmonic balancer to the later 50oz version to match the later engine.
2nd, remove the silly, noisy, and inefficient fixed engine fan, and get with the times with a modern after-market electric fan.
3rd, ditch the surprisingly good, but not good enough Halogen Sealed Beams, and go for some Autopal H4 and H1 conversion headlights.

My dad was helping me with this project, so we multi-tasked

Sitting for 3 months in Utah makes things dusty:


My dad pulled the original fan and water pump pulley:


The old harmonic Balancer was pulled:


and the new one painted:


Meanwhile I removed the headlight Bezels:


which fought me a bit:


and the headlights themselves:



It's interesting to note here, it turns out the High beam headlights (on the bottom) were actually the original FoMoCo high beams, as moulded into the glass.

At this point, while the paint was drying on the Balancer, we worked together to install the 16" Syclone fan from Flexalite onto my radiator, as well as the fan controller and relays to run it all.

By the time the fan was in and wired up, the paint was dry, so in went the balancer and water pump pully:


Back to the headlights, while the H4 housings went right into the original buckets no problem, the H1 housings had a small issue. These housings (and buckets) have 3 keys to ensure proper alignments, just like the H4's do. On the H1's however, one of the three keys does not line up with the notch in the bucket:


Some quick work with the wire-cutters later, and all was well:


At this time, I did not have enough relays to do a relay kit on the headlights, so I started installing things (which bit me later. Turns out the OEM switch can't handle 4 100 watt high-beams, and I lost all lighting after 15 seconds on high beam, low was fine though, and I fixed it with a Relay kit later in September)



Then I tested, this is with only the right side in (high and low beams) on high beam; Quite a difference, especially considering there were no relays in the system yet:


I drove down to Autozone to return the Harmonic Balancer Puller and check relay prices (too much, I just bought a 10 pack with sockets off of Amazon later)


Put the otherside together and did a preliminary aim:


and buttoned it all up, using Stainless Steel screws for the bezels this time:


So, at this point, I did some further road testing, dialed in the electric fan, wow'ed at the marked improvement in lighting conditions, and got super disappointed that the 50oz Harmonic balancer made the vibrations much, much worse. :cry:

Unfortunately, I was out of time, school was starting back up in a few days, and I would be un-able to do anything about the vibrations till later. I put the old 28oz balancer back in the next morning, and got on with things.

I'll post tomorrow about the roadtrip I took over Utah 153 and the Tushar Mountains.
 
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