Lens Flair

Mine for today

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Here's my one for today, I took it Saturday at the Galway International Rally.
The weather was extreme, heavy rain and gale force winds made it a real challange to take pictures...The D90 is working well..:)
 
Wow, was about to post a picture that I had touched up on my desktop using my CRT. Checked it on my laptop first.... I need to adjust some color levels before I post again :O
 
I'm trying to become a better photographer. This is a shot I took last Sunday, I'd really like some constructive criticism on it.

https://pic.armedcats.net/c/cr/craigb/2009/01/19/mark_3.jpg

Here's more photos from the same day:
http://forums.finalgear.com/vehicle-sighting-photos/local-mustang-photo-shoot-33397/

I'm using a Nikon D50 that I bought a few years ago. I was using the 18-55 "kit" lens on these photos. Don't ask about aperture or shutter speed, I was constantly changing that and can't remember... :(
 
Don't ask about aperture or shutter speed, I was constantly changing that and can't remember...
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That's what EXIF data is for.

I'd add a bit of contrast, but I think it's pretty good overall. It might be a bit better if you'd framed it so that the car was at the bottom of the photo, not the middle and also tilted the composition one way or another to make it more interesting.
 
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I have a D50 too. It really is a great cheap piece of kit to start off with. And I would agree with epp_b - framing a photo well is pretty important - the rule of thirds is indispensable.
 
BerserkerCatSplat said:
Which of your monitors is calibrated? Laptop screens usually are far less accurate than your average CRT.
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Neither is calibrated, but I've always had issues with the brightness on the CRT. Because of the brightness issues over the years I've adjusted every other setting trying to find a solution and it's apparently just messed it all up. The colors are much more vivid on my laptop, even when viewing in RAW.
 
It's a lightmeter. It tells you what exposure/aperture settings to use. The difference is that that thing measures light falling onto the subject, the meter in your camera measures light bouncing off it. It's a more precise way of measuring light and setting up studio lighting the way you want.
 
Another point is that a camera meters before the exposure. This is not a problem when using an on-camera flash, or using TTL compatible cords or via wireless TTL, but if you're using studio lights, the in-camera metering is useless.

At least I can't think of any way it would be useful. Though, I rarely use a lightmeter myself in studio, I usually know what to do, and histograms allows me to do adjustments when needed. I do use it with film, though, just to make sure.
 
Unless you were going for the high key look, you could try sorting out the levels to get the whites white and the blacks black. Something like this.
 
I tell you what, it looks like that photo is about 120 years old. Intriguing.
 
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