Installing a Car Battery That's a Little Too Big

[Ilpav]

Today I had to install a new battery for the 2005 Toyota Matrix my parents just bought (old one didn't crank engine, just made rapid clicks. It also had an indicator that's supposed to have a green light when it's ok, but it didn't).

Anyway, the new one I bought is a little taller then the old one (same length and width), and there's a bar in the middle holding it down on both ends with a washer and a nut.

On the back there's also a thin, metal pole that looks like a "J" that is supposed to hook under the battery and connect at the top of the bar holding it down. At the front, the bar just connects directly to the shell of the engine bay.

The thing is that I struggled to bend the bar hard enough for it to connect, so it's really on there.

My question is: is it ok for it to be like this, it's very snug and secure, but maybe that bar is an indicator for the height limit of the battery? The hood closes fine, but still, should I worry?

Also, it came with a holding strap made of cloth; should I keep it on there or is it some kind of fire hazard?

Thanks.

 

[Spectre]

Got a picture of it? Some batteries come with a spacer that is removable.

Also, are you sure you got the correct battery for the car?

 

[Ilpav]

Got a picture of it? Some batteries come with a spacer that is removable.

Also, are you sure you got the correct battery for the car?

Here's a pic:

It's a Motomaster NASCAR Advantage battery. The guy at the store told me that it's the only one they have that will fit into a Matrix. Its been driven already and so far so good.

 

[KaJuN]

I don't think the batteries in any of my cars have been held down by anything. I've never had any problems even while off roading over rough terrain.

 

[Seasonone]

Dumb question but did you tighten one side down fully than try to do the other side? You're going to one to get the nuts barley on on both side than tighten them down evenly.

You don't NEED a tie down if you don't go to a track and get inspected but IMO it's kind of pointless to not have a properly installed battery. Get the "J" piece and go to ace hardware/fastener supply store and get a coupling nut and than a hex cap screw. Than just screw the coupling nut to the top of the "J" bolt to give you that extra room you need, than sandwich the tie down piece between the coupling nut and your hex cap screw. Nice and secure and won't cost more than $1 (gr 2 is just fine)

 

[Ilpav]

Dumb question but did you tighten one side down fully than try to do the other side? You're going to one to get the nuts barley on on both side than tighten them down evenly.

You don't NEED a tie down if you don't go to a track and get inspected but IMO it's kind of pointless to not have a properly installed battery. Get the "J" piece and go to ace hardware/fastener supply store and get a coupling nut and than a hex cap screw. Than just screw the coupling nut to the top of the "J" bolt to give you that extra room you need, than sandwich the tie down piece between the coupling nut and your hex cap screw. Nice and secure and won't cost more than $1 (gr 2 is just fine)

Yes, I tightened the bar first on the "J" pole at the back, and then I had to bend it a bit and get it onto the hole at the front. I'll try to extend it. I just wanted to know if there can be any problems caused by it, and if there was some kind of fire hazard with the cloth handle for the battery.

 

[Seasonone]

wait, you tightened one side all the way before getting the other one on? What you should be doing is getting just enough of the thread on the nut to "grip" so you can't pull it off but isn't tight at all just a turn or two with your hands if the bolt starts going past the top of the nut it's too far. Than you put the hex cap screw on to the radiator support, than go back and forth tightening both sides until it's snug.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c138/357wheelgunner/EngineBayShot.jpg
This is all assuming your engines looks like that (minus the pointless grounding kit and intake)

The only "problem" you would have is if it tips and the positive terminal starts touching something like the hood. Remember Clarkson in the Africa Episode? That's what could happen, but in a newer car with more electronics you could have bigger problems.


But like KaJun said, you can get away without using one with no problems, if it were my car and I were in that situation I would probably just ignore it. I just vote the coupling nut because it's your parents car and with parents I always vote "better safe than sorry"

 

[Crazyjeeper]

I don't think the batteries in any of my cars have been held down by anything. I've never had any problems even while off roading over rough terrain.

Dude, Tie your batteries down. Seriously. Just because they haven't fallen out of the tray doesn't mean that they aren't bouncing around.

 

[Ilpav]

wait, you tightened one side all the way before getting the other one on? What you should be doing is getting just enough of the thread on the nut to "grip" so you can't pull it off but isn't tight at all just a turn or two with your hands if the bolt starts going past the top of the nut it's too far. Than you put the hex cap screw on to the radiator support, than go back and forth tightening both sides until it's snug.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c138/357wheelgunner/EngineBayShot.jpg
This is all assuming your engines looks like that (minus the pointless grounding kit and intake)

The only "problem" you would have is if it tips and the positive terminal starts touching something like the hood. Remember Clarkson in the Africa Episode? That's what could happen, but in a newer car with more electronics you could have bigger problems.


But like KaJun said, you can get away without using one with no problems, if it were my car and I were in that situation I would probably just ignore it. I just vote the coupling nut because it's your parents car and with parents I always vote "better safe than sorry"

Yes, it's exactly like the one in that picture. I didn't tighten the nut on the "J" pole all the way. I did it just a little and kept tightening it on both ends until it was snug. It's actually very snug in there, isn't that the whole point?

The new battery is probably about 1 inch taller, but it still made me bend the bar quite a bit.

 

[Seasonone]

Oh sorry I completely read that wrong, I thought you were saying it was too tall and you couldn't get the plate on.

You don't need to tighten it down all the way, in fact bending the bar is a bit much. The battery just needs to be held in place.

 

[73GMCSprint]

Dude, Tie your batteries down. Seriously. Just because they haven't fallen out of the tray doesn't mean that they aren't bouncing around.

X2. I've seen what happens when a battery tips over and shorts against the frame/bodywork/etc. Best case you'll be replacing at least some wiring. Worst case your car/truck will go up in flames.

 

[tigger]

Yes, I tightened the bar first on the "J" pole at the back, and then I had to bend it a bit and get it onto the hole at the front. I'll try to extend it. I just wanted to know if there can be any problems caused by it, and if there was some kind of fire hazard with the cloth handle for the battery.

If you're not distorting the battery casing in any way I'd say that you're probably fine. But lengthening the J bar wouldn't be a bad idea. That cloth handle won't cause you any problems.

 

[Ilpav]

If you're not distorting the battery casing in any way I'd say that you're probably fine. But lengthening the J bar wouldn't be a bad idea. That cloth handle won't cause you any problems.

The bar is kinda scraping on the surface of the battery and already scratched a little bit of the casing, but not much.

 

[Matt2000]

What you need dear friend, is a gentle persuasion tool.

It works on any surface (bonnet, battery tray, inner wings) and is carbon neutral, kind of.

 

[Ilpav]

Here are some pictures I took:

https://pic.armedcats.net/a/an/anonymous/2008/09/29/IMG_0444.jpg
https://pic.armedcats.net/a/an/anonymous/2008/09/29/IMG_0439.jpg
https://pic.armedcats.net/a/an/anonymous/2008/09/29/IMG_0437.jpg
https://pic.armedcats.net/a/an/anonymous/2008/09/29/IMG_0436.jpg
https://pic.armedcats.net/a/an/anonymous/2008/09/29/IMG_0435.jpg

 

[JipJopJones]

Dude, Tie your batteries down. Seriously. Just because they haven't fallen out of the tray doesn't mean that they aren't bouncing around.

Very true, Bouncing around is not good for a battery. It can cause the battery to malfunction and no longer work (possibly even explode)

OT: As long as the battery isn't moving around it should be fine.

 

[justvisiting]

thats fine, you already look like you bent it in there. Next time just look around for a battery that fits perfect. I'm positive there are tons out there, especially since it's for a toyota.

 

[Seasonone]

As long as that "L" bracket is the battery than it's ok, if you want you can put a "shim" on the terminal side, I used an extra shift knob for over a year. :lol: It will distribute the tension from the tie down a little more even.

https://pic.armedcats.net/s/se/seasonone/2008/10/01/BATRY.JPG

 

[WellsieTRD]

Dude, Tie your batteries down. Seriously. Just because they haven't fallen out of the tray doesn't mean that they aren't bouncing around.

+1. Mine came loose on my last off road trip and ended up rubbing on the A/c compresser pulley and wore a hold in the battery. Engine bay got soaked in battery acid. Had to replace the battery, tray, battery cables, A/c belt and my RHF shockie as the acid chewed up the tray and belt, and rusted the shockie. Replaced the cables out of caution.

 

[Ilpav]

As you can see, that "L" bracket on the bar doesn't quite fit onto the battery; it's slightly rubbing against it.

Can anyone figure out the problem that made the old battery malfunction (It was the original battery from the factory, and it shouldn't run out this soon)? When I tried to start the car, the gauges turned on and everything (I had ignition), but when I cranked the key, a rapid clicking noise started from the engine bay. What could that be?

Anyway, tomorrow I'm going to the guy I bought the car from and he'll try to make the old battery work (he gave me a 1-year bumper-to-bumper warranty; he owns a body shop), and if it doesn't, he'll replace it for free, and I'll have to return the new battery I bought (he can get a battery for wholesale price and I bought the new battery for around $140).