Random Thoughts... [Automotive Edition]

I believe GM was one of the first US auto manufactures to offer that.
 
I wish my 2015 Mazda 3 would turn on it's lights sooner in the evening. Sometimes in the middle of the day if I'm driving under an overpass, the lights will turn on and my dash will dim to night mode...but then, especially when I'm driving towards the setting sun with the darkness behind me, the lights don't go on until much later than I'd prefer. Then, I with the display would wait until it was darker to dim. So lights on first, then display dims later.

California has a "headlights must be on if your wipers are on" law. As long as things are being automated, it would be handy if the lights would go on when the wipers did (and then stayed on for a minimum of 3 minutes or something, just so that your lights didn't flash on and off as you drive in and out of rain pockets).
 
93Flareside said:
I believe GM was one of the first US auto manufactures to offer that.
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The world's first production automatic headlight control system was GM's Twilight Sentinel, first offered on multiple 1960 Buick models (IIRC) and then spreading as standard or optional equipment through all their brands the next year. The other two of the then Big Three would quickly follow with their own systems under different names. Thomas' 1994 Cadillac still proudly carries the Twilight Sentinel on its switch panel next to the adjuster that allows you to select (for all practical purposes) how dim it should be outside before it switches the headlights on.





Of course, GM was also one of the first manufacturers to strip this functionality back out when they started offering DRLs. Idiots.

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NecroJoe said:
I wish my 2015 Mazda 3 would turn on it's lights sooner in the evening. Sometimes in the middle of the day if I'm driving under an overpass, the lights will turn on and my dash will dim to night mode...but then, especially when I'm driving towards the setting sun with the darkness behind me, the lights don't go on until much later than I'd prefer. Then, I with the display would wait until it was darker to dim. So lights on first, then display dims later.
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That's why Thomas' Cadillac's Twilight Sentinel system has an adjustment slider. Buy a better car. :p

California has a "headlights must be on if your wipers are on" law. As long as things are being automated, it would be handy if the lights would go on when the wipers did (and then stayed on for a minimum of 3 minutes or something, just so that your lights didn't flash on and off as you drive in and out of rain pockets).
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Other states have contrary laws - though that may have changed since last I looked. Several states prohibit the flashing of lights, automated or otherwise.
 
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NecroJoe said:
California has a "headlights must be on if your wipers are on" law. As long as things are being automated, it would be handy if the lights would go on when the wipers did (and then stayed on for a minimum of 3 minutes or something, just so that your lights didn't flash on and off as you drive in and out of rain pockets).
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NY is the same, I believe my car does that in auto lights mode, if wipers are on for more than X amount of time the lights turn on.
 
CrzRsn said:
Reminds me of the Jeep dealer I contacted with about a Wrangler.

EDIT: Found it



Also..... GT350?
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I seem to remember your Jeep dealer escapade.

And... I will neither confirm nor deny.
 
We wouldn't even need light sensors if the tail lights were on with the DRL:s at all times.

We would still want them, of course, because having the car do something for you instead of having to do it yourself is always better. Including shifting gears. :p

But we wouldn't have clueless drivers driving around at night with front DRL:s only, probablymaybe wondering why their new car has crap headlights, and not realizing they aren't visible from behind.
 
I believe I read somewhere the revised EU regulations would require rear lights being on as well in the day, can't find it in print tho. But in the meantime the solution is obvious, everyone must only be allowed to buy Volvos since they always have rear DRL lights. Simple fix :p
 
I've started to see brand new cars having rear lights on again. That's good, but we still have the better part of a decade's worth of cars driving around with no rear lights due to clueless drivers that won't ever learn.

Also, for some reason Finnish-spec mk2 Octavias are programmed to have the rear lights on, even though they aren't anywhere else. At least as far as I know.
 
When I first bought my BRZ, the first time I drove at night I was stick by how bright the headlights were.

And then I realized I hadn't turned them on.
And then I was awestruck at how bright the REAL headlights were. The LED DRLs are brighter than the conventional lights on every other vehicle I've ever owned.
 
EyeMWing said:
The LED DRLs are brighter than the conventional lights on every other vehicle I've ever owned.
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I have a recurring issue with new Cherokees; their LED DRLs fall roughly at eye level when in my Dart, and they're brighter than the high beams of the Pennsyltucky specials/Ohio jalopies that come right before them.
 
Do the Chrysler radios of the early 2000s have a security code? My sisters 2006 Grand Cherokee REC radio isn't sending audio out (I have power at the amp) and according to the internets, the radios have a board inside that separates over time. If I get another radio off eBay, is there a security code like GM radios that I have to enter in?
 
93Flareside said:
Do the Chrysler radios of the early 2000s have a security code? My sisters 2006 Grand Cherokee REC radio isn't sending audio out (I have power at the amp) and according to the internets, the radios have a board inside that separates over time. If I get another radio off eBay, is there a security code like GM radios that I have to enter in?
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Yup, they do and yes, there is.

Just convert to aftermarket audio and be done with it.

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PelicanHazard said:
I have a recurring issue with new Cherokees; their LED DRLs fall roughly at eye level when in my Dart, and they're brighter than the high beams of the Pennsyltucky specials/Ohio jalopies that come right before them.
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Simple solution: Get something bigger than the lawn Dart. :p
 
I'm just looking to make the radio functional because we're selling it once that's working.
 
93Flareside said:
I'm just looking to make the radio functional because we're selling it once that's working.
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Did you check to see if the head unit was producing audio? Just getting power at the amp isn't enough to determine if the amp is functioning or if the amp is getting signal at all.
 
How would I do that? Doesn't the radio need canbus return signal from the amp to send audio?
 
That dent? That's from when you parked next to a car for ants filled with children who throw doors open.

Or is that bent..?
 
93Flareside said:
How would I do that? Doesn't the radio need canbus return signal from the amp to send audio?
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You can take it to a dealer or someone with the Chrysler diagnostic system or aftermarket equivalent to check it out. Also, if you have CANBUS audio, no, you don't need a code - I missed the "REC" part earlier.

However.

There is a TSB on a very similar problem - you should probably do this first.

08-035-04 NO SOUND FROM RADIO SPEAKER/AMPLIFIER WHEN IOD FUSE IS INSTALLED

Date: 10/25/04

Model year(s): 2005

Description: This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with Boston Accoustic Speakers (sales code RC6).

Details: A technician or customer may experience a condition where no sound is generated by the audio system (the radio amplifier and speaker) when the Ignition Off Draw (IOD) fuse is first installed. During this condition the radio display will illuminate as designed and the radio controls will appear to function correctly.

This condition may be experienced when a vehicle predelivery is being performed by the dealer technician or any time after the IOD fuse has been reinstalled following prior removal.

This condition may be caused by the radio amplifier. The radio is powered by the IOD fuse and will stop sending command messages to the radio amplifier when the IOD fuse is removed or when it is turned off. The radio amplifier is not powered by the IOD fuse and remains awake for a period of time waiting for command messages from the radio. Without command messages from the radio, the radio amplifier will remember the last known command message status from the radio which was ?radio off?. The radio amplifier will store the ?radio off? command and may not generate sound until the amplifier is reset.

The radio amplifier can be reset so that it is operational using one of the following two procedures.

Radio amplifier reset procedure 1 (induced ?sleep? mode):

1. Verify that the IOD fuse is fully installed.

2. Disconnect any diagnostic scan tools from the vehicle. Diagnostic scan tools when connected to the vehicle may keep some modules and the communication bus from going into ?sleep? mode.

3. Turn the ignition switch to the ?OFF? position and remove the ignition key.

4. Make sure all doors, hood, liftgate are closed. Make sure all accessories are turned off. Open the driver side door and close it.

5. Wait one minute before performing any activity to the vehicle to allow the vehicle modules and communication bus to go into ?sleep? mode.

Radio amplifier reset procedure 2 (battery disconnect):

1. Verify that the IOD fuse is fully installed.
2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery.
3. Wait five (5) seconds.
4. Connect the negative battery terminal to the battery.
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Several possible solutions here as well: http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/...sion-dealer-service/49815-no-sound-radio.html

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EyeMWing said:
What the hell did I do here?
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Drove it in Pennsylvania? :dunno:
 
Spectre said:
Simple solution: Get something bigger than the lawn Dart. :p
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In the pipeline, but you're not going to like it :p

You've got a few years to get properly disappointed though before I can financially pull the trigger.

EyeMWing said:
What the hell did I do here?
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...someone pushed a rock into it? :dunno: I dunno, but I got a dent in the Dart there too under highly mysterious circumstances.
 
AiR said:
That dent? That's from when you parked next to a car for ants filled with children who throw doors open.

Or is that bent..?
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About a foot worth of dent.

I'm wondering if this isn't fallout from one of my "shoveling snow is for suckers" moments where I park on top of a giant ice pack.

Also probably related to the same activities, I just replaced about 15 of those infernal plastic push clips. All the "suspension" popping noises seem to have been plastic body panels banging off of things because they were no longer held still.
 
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